Thursday 26 January 2012

Christmas and New Year: Ghana Style


Samina and I had pledged to spend Christmas and New Year together way back in September when we met in the first week on In Country Training. I had splashed out and booked a flight from Tamele to Accra.  Samina was picking me from the airport at about 10.30 in the morning so we could head straight off on our festive adventure. I could go into much detail about our 2 and a half hour taxi ride across a very small area of Accra moving at a snail’s pace through the worst traffic I have ever seen in the world to find a bus station which had a bus leaving to go to Volta region. It took 3 attempts to find one; third time lucky. I could follow it with further detail about the following expected two hour wait for the bus to arrive that turned into a 6 hour wait and then the expected 3 hour bus ride which turned into a 7 hour bus ride. We finally arrived at mountain lodge at 2am and crashed having not peed for 14 hours. But I won’t dwell on The Worst Bus Ride In Ghana So Far for two reasons; One, we woke to find we were slap bang in the middle of some fabulous views and one of the nicest areas of Ghana I've seen so far and two, that hideous bus ride earned us enough ‘travelling karma’ to get us to Accra, on to Elmina, back to Accra and then me back to Tamele and then Bolga; in relative comfort, practically stress free, with zero hassle or waiting and, despite a tro tro tyre blow out at speed – safely.
While in Volta Region for Christmas Samina and I experienced a half hour walk to a waterfall, a monkey Sanctuary, Kente weaving, Wli Waterfalls and some well-deserved ‘down time’.  Most was as it says on the tin.  That is apart from the half hour walk to the local waterfall.  Marketing is not a great skill of the Ghanaians and in true Ghanaian style this half hour walk turned out to be a two hour trek.  It involved a significant amount of time in an abseiling position (without a harness) both ascending and descending steep, (often too steep) inclines to reach the damn waterfall.  It turns out my arms were strong enough to hold my own weight… not something I have ever been good at but it was close to failure.  Too close and the ‘snaps’ show it all.  As we got further and further on in the walk my photos become more and more blurry as my muscles spasm under the strain of having to support my own weight!  Still we did it and to be honest I am sure even the fittest Ghanaian couldn’t do it in the half hour advertised…
We had a great time and met some lovely people and saw the most amazing scenery and wildlife.  I cannot express it well enough in words and I am sure through my ‘snaps you still won’t truly be able to appreciate it, however here are a few Christmas snaps so you can see what I saw during Christmas 2011….
view from mountain lodge bar

waterfall at the end of the 2 hour trek... blurred due to muscle spasm

the abseil

mona monkey

mona monkeys

young girl enjoying her 'snap'

there is something about this picture I love....

kente cloth being weaved by a young boy

bobbins

no explanation needed

Surrounded by Kente cloth

Samina and I

Wli waterfall

View from Wli guesthouse

EVERYTHING is carried this way - except babies... they go in a wrap on women's backs

Christmas lunch; tilapia and jollof rice

Ellie B experiencing snow in Ghana

Buttterflies at Wli waterfalls

typically green at Wli while the north of Ghana is as dry as a desert...

It’s true I got a little homesick at Christmas but luckily I had a fab group of people around me.
New year brought us moving to the coast in hot pursuit of Ali and other VSO vols that both Samina and I had spent the last 3 months with. So here are a few New Year snaps to show the fab beach week we endured with pleasure!  
Ali Samina and me

look carefully... there's a man in that coconut tree!

the gang

they don't seem to have black dolls here in Ghana...

washing drying

fishing boats

bath time

Ko Sa...Where we stayed


The beach


The trip highlighted that Ghana for me is full of contrasts which are frustrating and at times unfathomable.  The further south you get it seems the rich just get richer (Accra is a minefield of rich getting richer) but the country as a whole has so much to offer on so many levels it seems a great shame that the contrasts of Ghana have not been fully exploited in a sustainable way to the benefit of all its people.  I have no doubt there will be another blog expanding on that at a later date.  For now; a very belated happy Christmas and New Year to you all…


Thursday 19 January 2012

And then she was gone…



Ali that is; my partner in crime at the weekends for 3 months, my nurse, my drinking partner, my text teacher and my friend.  So many good times, good memories and many I haven’t blogged about.  So here’s just a few extra….
Nightclubs and sausages just about sums up our time together.  Nightclubs because we went a couple of times and would have gone more had Ali’s time here in Ghana not been so short.  One classic night, about midnight, when I was about to go to bed dressed in my nightclothes she asked the fatal question (to be said with a northern twang) ‘shall we go dancin’?’ Little did she know how spontaneous I can be; half an hour later we were out of the door and Ali was accosting neighbours to join us on our dancin’ mission which we duly accomplished, finishing somewhere around dawn with the cockerels crowing.  The only unfortunate consequence was, we had to sit through a meeting feeling slightly worse for wear.  
So what of the sausages?  Here they are big and spicy. You can buy them in the nightclub and on every street corner in town (this is not a euphemism) and they were often the supper of choice ‘up on the roof’.  When a sausage man opened up just across my street… well let’s just say we couldn’t get enough of them….
Our second trip to Tamale (second of three in total) was a mixture of the good the bad and the ugly.…… We took a while to leave; Ali was late from Z-Town and then we got on the tro tro. This particular one needed a push to start then stopped at traffic lights and a van went into the back of it and knocked of the iron crumple bar.  It needed another push start to move us. Then we had to pull over to sort it all out; the bar and the other driver.  The whole thing took longer than is necessary when you are sitting on a tightly packed tro with zero air conditioning I was convinced we wouldn’t get to Tamele!  We were out of TICCS guesthouse in Tamele and down the road to the Health and Beauty salon by 4pm to have a pedicure (of sorts – still unsure of the need to use a blade).  We were grateful on reflection that our experience, however painful, did not leave us with the open sores that a fellow vol got a few days afterwards having visited the salon on our recommendation.  Whoops.
The next day in Tamele turned out to be the Most Efficient Day In Ghana so far, and that was with a lie in! We managed; a lovely breakfast, a taxi to town, withdrew money from ATM, booked flights x 3, got text conformation while we sat there, had a drink, a taxi to the VRA pool and sat down sunbathing all before 12 midday… unheard of. And I can safely say without exception all of the above on a normal day would happen with many problems attached, (no money in ATM is a regular one for example) or in the case of text conformation – it would not happen at all.  We devoured fabulous thin crust pizza and great red wine that night which really finished off a great day.
The next day we discovered the cultural centre in Tamele was not cultural at all and the toilet was simply a urinal which equates to a piece of corrugated iron providing some privacy for you to squat and pee on the ground… I couldn't go… and as Ali put it ‘it’s hardly cultured is it…’  Statement of fact rather than a question.
 The tro tro back (I had to go back to tro’s didn’t I!) was fabulous for me sandwiched between 4 men with small butts. Marvellous.  Not so great for Ali who was perched on the edge of a seat between 2 fat ladies and a family of 3… oh, then they shoved a bloke on the row for good measure….kama for the boy who sat on my lap all the way to Tamele the first time we travelled me thinks!
Our final trip to Tamele to drop Ali off at the airport and make the most of an overnight stay and good food with the two Mr T’s (Tony and Tom), was thankfully not the last time I was to see this lovely lady. She met up with her partner Mark and they headed to the coast for a couple of weeks before they were to fly back home to Blighty.  We talked of meeting up but didn’t want to plan too much because 1.  Ali doesn’t plan (well, doesn’t admit to planning) and 2. We were not sure how far away her plush hotel and our beach side hut would be from each other to enable celebrating the new year together.  Our first beach side residence was literally right next door to her plush residence and when we moved to our next beach side hut for New Year, it wasn’t far down the road so I have some super memories of beach walks at night, midnight swims, too much vodka, fireworks and sparklers.  Thank you Ali for a super fabulous 3 months. Missing you already.
Ali and me... partners in weekend crime.